no lollies for guessing who the mongolians named their airport after - the great chinggis khan. we flew in via korean air, one of the few privileged airlines able to use their tarmac. it didn't take long before we had a taste of mongolian bureaucracy where they rummaged through our dental equipment, almost as if they were looking for something in particular. wally? cinderella's lost shoe? after a long flight, this wasn't the sort of welcoming ceremony we were expecting. by the time we left, it was one in the morning and the airport was closed. yes, you heard right, chinggis khan international airport actually closes. lights off, doors shut and everyone goes to sleep.